Adventures in making a green house

For awhile now, we have had this idea of either purchasing or making a green house.  Purchasing would be easy, but come with some expense. Making one, could be challenging, and if not thought out, still pose an expense.

After months of consideration, this idea followed by that.  Reasons for this versus reasons for that.  We finally came to the conclusion that we had enough equipment and supplies that we could make one on our own. 

The materials:

Several years ago my husband and I helped a relative repair their green house.  It was a beautiful extension of their home.  It arched from the south eve of their house right down to the ground.  The structure was framed in a wood skeleton, capped on both ends by solid wood walls.  The east wall held a screen door that had a sliding glass window.  This allowed for venting with out access to the bugs.  The wood skeleton held onto a double layer of plastic.  Each double sheet was connected together in such a manner that air could be blown in between each of the panels, between the layers providing and insulating core.  The air in the panels would stay warm helping to maintain the temperatures in the interior of the green house.

Besides being able to extend the growing season, they were able to heat their home.  The green house encompassed a couple different windows to the house allowing easy passage of the warm air. 
The extra plastic that wasn't needed for their green house was graciously given to us, along with the plastic strapping that was used to protect the plastic when stapled.  The plastic strapping helps to reinforce the plastic sheeting.  It also helps to make the sheeting air and water tight. 

So we have plastic sheeting and plastic strapping.

Next, we're going to need staples, and preferably an air compressor.  Some lengths of wood would be nice, zip ties and clips, or clamps.  Oh and lets not forget the over all frame.  Ha ha!  We have a gazebo frame that currently needs new fabric for it to be a working gazebo this year.  Who would have known? 

We also had 2 large silk screen drying rack shelves and 4 small ones, that were currently being used for the border of last years garden.  We have dogs.  Fencing in the garden for us, is a must.  However the drying rack shelves are now going to be repurposed.

I'm pretty sure that we had a clear idea on what we expected to see, but were still pleasently surprised by the time we were done.

This is the gazebo and several of the materials needed to make this green house work.  The gazebo is a 10'ft x 10'ft structure that has a pyramid style roof.  We found that the most difficult part of wrapping the frame in plastic was the roof.  We decided to treat it like we were wrapping a present.  This gave us the needed venting system that we will need when the weather finally warms.

Day 1:

A little bit of clean up.....  Move the BBQ, move the rocks that are going into the garden.  Don't forget the lawn chairs.  All of which found refuge for the winter inside the frame of the gazebo.  We pull apart the garden border and retrieve the drying rack shelves.  The 2 large ones are big enough to span the distance or doorway between the "legs" of the gazebo.  (We'll use the large ones on 2 sides).  2 of the smaller ones will span part of the distance between the third doorway.  This side is going to be used to create the green house door.  We zip tie all 4 of the racks to the gazebo frame.  The fourth side is right against the studio wall.  It will only need to be covered in plastic.

This is one of the drying rack shelves.  This used to be a part of a large drying shelf system.  But once pulled a part they make a great pre-made fencing system.  We originally used them to keep the dogs out of the garden.  We also used them for the runner beans and peas we grew last year.  This year they are being used to create a more solid wall for the green house.

Now lets pull out the plastic.  The plastic comes in a roll, and originally was 100'ft long.  It also comes folded in half.  This particular sheeting is 16'ft wide by approximately 35'ft long.  This was enough to wrap three sides of the gazebo frame.  Before we pulled the sheeting out of the box, we had hoped that we would be able to do a double layer, but we didn't have quite enough for that.  However, at 16' ft wide we were able to cover three sides completely along with all four sides of the roof.  16'ft was enough to leave approximately a 1'ft border of plastic on the ground, and still have nearly 3'ft over lapping the peak of the gazebo. 

Once we had an idea of how much plastic sheeting we had, we could start to formulate how we were going to drape it around and over the gazebo frame.

In order to get a general idea of where we were going to need to attach the sheeting to the frame we began pinning the plastic to the frame with clothes pins.  With a little bit of effort we were able to pin and secure most of the plastic sheeting within a couple of hours.  I don't think it would have taken quite that long, but there was some fenangaling and debate on how the sheeting should be stretched, and over layed across the top.  However, with just two of us, I don't consider that to be a bad amount of time. 

For the back of the gazebo, which still needed a cover, we had a plan B.  I can't remember exactly how it came about, but I give credit to my father-in-law.  He had this old role of yellow plastic.  Not having any use for it himself he gave it to us.  Over the years we've used it for things like table cloths at the family picnics, drop clothes when we did a mural for a local school, and what ever else we might need a role of yellow plastic for.  Anyway.  That's was our plan B for the back part of the new green house.

Now being on a zero budget, using only the items we had already on hand, we had to come up with a way to secure the plastic to a metal frame with as little damage as possible to the frame.  To the rescue, zip ties and lengths of wood.  Four lengths approximately 6'ft.  Those go above the door ways, on the edge of the roof.  Then 3 shorter lengths.  2 approximately 3'ft and 1 about 2'ft.  These shorter pieces, we attached to the new middle section of the old doorways.  Zip tying the pieces allows a place to staple the plastic.  The shortest of the three, the 2'ft piece is for the side with the new door.  Lets not forget the back part of the gazebo.  Even though this part is right next to a wall, and we would probably be okay leaving it open, we chose to err on the side of caution.  The intention of having a green house, at least the main reason, is to extend our growing season.  Especially this year where we have not been able to really turn over the ground because everything is still so soggy.  (Neither, for that matter have the farmers here.)  With that in mind, we took the extra steps to close off the back of the green house as well.  This requires 2 more lengths of wood.  These last 2 are about 5'ft.  They are zip tied to the sides of the original doorway sides of the gazebo that is against the wall.

The Gazebo frame has cross supports that provide a natural block or stopping point for the zip ties.  Where ever we had a vertical length of wood that we didn't want to slide, we would drill a hole through the wood and then slip the zip tie through the hole and over one of the supports of the metal frame.  With that done, and all of the wood secured to the metal frame we now had securring points for the plastic.

The arrows are showing some of the options we had for tying the lengths of wood to the frame of the gazebo.  By allowing the zip tie to rest agains these, "stopping points", we were able to prevent the wood from sliding or shifting.

Making the door as simple as possible kept us from having to frame in a door.  We positioned the plastic so that we would have an overlap of plastic for the door. 

While one of us held up the plastic in place the other worked to secured the first staples and strapping to the edge of the roof line.  In order to get a good stretch and seal at the ends of the plastic, (at the edges) we rolles the wood into the edge of the plastic, and then stapled the strapping and plastic to the wood to hold it in place.  In the middle sections of the original doors we stapled through the strapping and plastic and into the wood.  Because this was in the middle of the plastic there was no need to wrap the wood.  (These middle sections were to help prevent the plastic from having to much "give" in the wind.  Which seems to have done the trick, at least according to the last storm we just had.)

Now that we have two sides done we can move on to the door.  By intentionally putting a fold in the plastic where the door is intended, we were able to provide a "flap" that we could pin closed.  The extra plastic provided in the "flap" allows us to roll the edges of the door together, making a tighter seal.  Also, by intentionally placing the smaller drying rack shelves in the new doorway, we have a strong point to secure the plastic to.  We utilize this stronger area during wind.

Alright, so now we have all three sides, and a door done.  The next and most daunting task was figuring out the roof.  We had a couple goals in mind before startng this process.  We knew that by draping the plastic, without cutting it, we would be able to cover all four sides of the roof.  We wanted to provide collecting points for rain water, and if possible, create a way to vent the top of the green house when the weather became to hot to sustain life in the green house.  With that in mind, we tried several different way of wrapping, pinning, and folding the plastic to see what would look best, and what would work best.  Finally after much debate and a final decision to stop work and continue on the next day with a fresh view of everything, it hit me.  Lets wrap the top like a gift.  This would allow us to make the folds necessary to prevent cutting the plastic, also it would give us the choice of venting the top of the green house in hotter weather. 

We made a wood, square, collar that fit all four sides of the roof towards the top.  This was our next stapling or securing location.  Again we zip tied the wood to the frame of the gazebo.  We started with the south side of the roof.  The "pyramind" of the roof has supports that run up the middle of easch triangle, or side.  This made it necessary to have two collecting ponds per side of the roof.  We found two medium sized round rocks.  They created the pouch on either side of the support bar in each side of the roof.  The weight of these two rocks, gave us an idea of how deep we wanted to make the rain collection ponds.  Ponds makes them sound huge, in fact our largest one only collects about 4 gallons.  But we'll get to that later.  As I was saying the rocks helped by providing weight to strategic locations on the roof of the green house.  We pulled the plastic as tight as we thought we should and then secured it to the wood collar towards the top of the roof.  We did this by pinching a section of the plastic closest to the collar and then wrapping that "pinch" around the wood collar, finally securing it with the plastic strapping and staples.  Then we repeated this step on the East and West facing sides of the roof.  Between the three sides of the roof that we have already talked about, we had a lot of excess plastic sheeting.  (I may still change my mind this season, but for now I have no intention of cutting of the excess.)  With that, we took the extra and folded, more like rolled, them onto the South side of the roof.  Pinning them in place from underneath, seems to have created the pocket of warmth and rain collection we wanted. 

Now for the last side, the North side.  We had two dilemas with this side.  1) We needed to put together the slit created by the two ends coming together, and 2) we needed to secure the little bit of over hang we had from the roof onto the North wall.  So since we had enough fabric to overlap the peak of the roof, we had enough to over lap the edges across each other.  Now we could take the last edges and secure them around and under the edge of the roof. 

Next we zip tie the last two lengths of wood to the sides of the original gazebo frame. Between these two lengths of wood and the lengths at the sides of the gazebo we are able to secure the last two strips of plastic sheeting.  We have enough to wrap around the legs of the gazebo on both ends and then all that remains is the old, blocked doorway.  This we we'll close off with the yellow plastic.
 
Day 2:

Yesterday we got the main framing done for the green house.  We stapled and, when the compression ring gave out on the air compressor, screwed the plastic to secure it to all available securring points.  These points included the top, edges of the roof, and mid section of the walls.  We produced an overlapped doorway, which we clip closed with pinch clamps.

Today, we ventured into adapting our rain collection ponds, and tubing to run all of that extra water into a central barrel.  (eventually we will add more barrels to the green house for this and maintaining the temprature.)  And began to add tables and pots.  Not to mention the seed starts from the house.

This is just one corner of the green house.  The black tubing is felxible sprinkling system pipe, aka; funny pipe.  The green barrel is a collapsable water collection barrel, and in the top portion of the picture you can see the roof of the green house "weighted" into an upside down 2 liter bottle with the bottom cut off.  On the roof of the plastic is a rock that weighs between  1 and 2 lbs,  This is to help keep the shape of the collecting pond, and maintian a "dripping" point.  Between the lid of the 2 liter bottle and the "funny pipe", there is an air hose tube.  This moves the water from the soda bottle to the funny pipe with as little drip as possible.

To the right you can see the drying rack shelf, and to the left you can see the yellow plastic.  This is the Northeast corner.  Not visble is the Northwest and Southwest corners of the green house.  In these two corners, the "funny pipe" is coiled once, and then comes back on itself, and across the wall.  If you look back at the picture, you can see that we started here in the Northeast corner, directed the pipe to the left, coiled it, brought it back to the right, and so on.  Eventually the end of the "funny pipe" finds its way back to the green barrel where it empties.  We used zip ties to attach the pipe to the frame and itself.  The hope is that the black pipe will help bring heat into the green house.  What ever water may be in it will heat as well. 

The trickiest part of this was making the "funny pipe" run "down hill".  We eventually need the water to go to the green barrel.  If there are pockets of water, or places that the water runs the wrong direction, we will have water leaking onto the floor rather than being useful to water the plants.  The pressure will force the water out of the connections holes in the "funny pipe". 

The plan is 8 collection ponds on the roof.  We have a couple that are fairly shallow, and with out a tube or hole to move it to the barrel, would only collect a few pints before the excess would run off and onto the ground.  However, we also have a couple that would collect a few gallons before we put in a hole or tube.  (Even though we tried to make all of the ponds fairly equal, the movement in some areas, and non-movement in others created some inequality.  We will work with what we have accomplished at this point.)

Wherever we had drips that didn't want to follow the rules and drip into the soda bottles, we added tubing.  That produced a line for the water to follow, either inside or outside of the tube. 

A little bit of tying, and angling, and vuala' we had water collecting in the barrel.  Now the amount of water in the barrel, isn't extraordinary, but it is working.  We have a water barrel that collects rain water from the roof of the house.  It filled to capacity, and overflowed into a second barrel capturing 104 gallons in one storm.  The excess had no where to go but to the ground.  collecting from the roof of a rainguttered building is more effecient.  Much more water is directed to one or two locations, with the aid of rain gutters that span a good portion of the down ward side of the roof line.  This is then aided by drain spouts that direct the flow of water for a second time from the roof to specified locations, usually at the corners, of the building.  I am quite pleased with the progress our green house barrel is making. 

Now for the plants.  We had started several seeds in the house several weeks ago, including potatoes in a bucket, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-s1U-W510k .  When the weather has been good, I've taken them outside to get a bit of sun.  This helps to toughen up the stems and leaves, also called hardening off.  When the weather is a bit to tough, like you know 6 inches of snow mid April, they have stayed in.  Barring any major catastrophe from the wind, or some other unforseen event, we can now leave them outside.  They have only been in the green house for a few days now.  They have not "hardened off" quite enough yet to be left to their own devices, so when the sun is too extreme, for the next few days, they will be moved under the tables for shade.  However, on the other side of that, even though the green house is not insulated, and has no process for holding heat yet, the cover also prevents frost and extreme cold temperatures that could damage or kill the new plants. 

Now:

We had a huge storm surge move through yesterday.  The gusts calculated were, in some spots 70 mph.  We were blessed, the green house is still standing, in one piece.  I can just imagine the damage that storm did after it made it past the Rockies. 

We have several pots that will be moved to the garden as soon as the weather allows, probably after Memorial Day, and several plants that will maintain their spots in the greenhouse all summer. 

We are also working on an experiment with hydroponics.  That is an adventure yet to be written about.

Now, one way we are planning to heat and hold heat in the green house, especially to fight over night temperatures, is to store water bottles inside the green house along the walls.  In order to speed up the heating process, we will then drape black plastic over those same bottles.  The black will absorb the heat, in turn heating the water in the bottles.  Water, has a slow heat loss value.  In other words, once water achieves a certain desired temperature, it dissipates that heat slowly. 

A second idea is to purchase a new roll of plastic sheeting and add a second layer to the existing green house.  2 problems with this, 1) this will add expense to the project, and part of the idea was to accomplish it with materials on hand, and 2) this would eliminate the possiblity of collecting rain.  in order to create an insulation layer, we would have to seal any and all holes in the plastic sheeting, and then add a fan that would force air in between the layers.  Forcing air in between the layers is extremely effective for creating a warmth barrier.  But.... no rain collection.

And here we are.  Now to see about the hydroponics, heating that we have decided on, and how soon I can get some strong, ready to transplant, seed starts.  :)

Camping

These are the items I have found most useful for the "camping" portion of the trip.  They include both common, like a tent,  and uncommon items, like key rings for the tent.  Like the others, this list is meant to help get you started.  It is meant to be a guide.  Ultimately, you will determine what is acceptable, and what can be replaced. 

Know your equipment.  Know the area you will be in.  And know who you will be with.  I recommend taking the time to haul out all of your equipment as soon as the weather permits, and take a good stock of everything.  This is the time to make repairs and shore up your camping defenses.  Of course you'll want to have repair items with you just in case, but wouldn't you rather fix the whole now, while your home, that little johhny put in your tent when he accidentally dropped it off of the shelf onto the row of bikes?  I would.  Your going to want to haul every thing out one more time after your last trip of the year also.  There is nothing worse than forgetting that you packed wet, and nothing had the chance to dry.  Mildew, and mold will eat through nylon just as it will eat through canvas and other materials.  If you take the time to take care of your equipment, it will take care of you.

Camping:

Tent  There are many different sizes, styles, and manufacturers of tents.  Your tent will depend on what kind of camping and how many people will be with you.  There are tents that are large enough to hold 8 to 10 people, and tents that are small enough to only hold 1 person.  Again, what kind of camping are you going to be doing?  I still have a special place in my heart for the old heavy duty canvas tents.  The spring bar the scouts used.  They kept us warmer and dryer than any tent I can remember since then.  But, they are heavy.  These are not the kinds of tents your going to be hiking anywhere.  Now, with all of the new fabrics and construction of tents, you could, (although I would consider other options first) conceivably hike in a tent that could fit at least 6 adults, or larger.  With that being said, use what you have, upgrade when you can.

Tarp I recommend at least 2 tarps.  I like to have a barrier between the tent and the ground.  This helps to keep moisture down inside the tent, and helps to keep the ground from sucking all of the heat out of the tent.  It acts sort of like a vapor barrier.  The second tarp is for creating a shelter.  Just because your out camping doesn't mean your going into a forest full of trees.  A second tarp can be used to provide shade, or protection from the rain.  Use it to cover equipment, or, in case your rain fly fails on top of your tent, you now have a temporary rain fly.  When effectively tied and supported, tarps can also create an effective wind barrier.  Ever tried to cook when a storm is brewing and the winds are whipping?  The answer... a tarp.

Sleeping bag(s) I have a favorite sleeping bag, which I have had for years.  It is an extra large fleece lined bag that is good down to 30 degrees.  It's one main draw back, is that it wont be any good to me for hiking.  It's too large and heavy.  However, I knew I was trading hiking convenience for comfort and warmth.  It also has a zipper that would allow me to zip a second similar bag to it, if I were to get a second one.  It has two, sewn in straps that clip together to hold the sleeping bag when it's rolled.  There are just as many different types of sleeping bags as there are tents.  Each one has been designed for a specific purpose.  Some are built to withstand extreme temperatures.  Some are built to hold more than one person, while others are designed to cover every inch of your body except a little breathing hole for your mouth and nose.  When looking for a bag, I would look first to what kind of camping, followed by temperatures, and finally price and whether you like it or not.  This is a place I would highly recommend putting in the money.  If your tent fails, or you like sleeping under the stars, you will still have a successful trip, if you can sleep comfortably at night. 

This link is for REI.   They have a wide selection of sleeping bags and other equipment.  Their prices and selection are a great start in finding what you want.

http://www.rei.com/search?cat=22000021 or Cabellas, http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search.cmd?form_state=searchForm&N=0&fsch=true&Ntk=AllProducts&Ntt=sleeping+bags&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products 

Sleeping mat(s) There are two great reasons for a sleeping pad or mat.  1) a little bit of cushion between you and the bare ground, and 2) they provide a barrier between you and the cold ground.  That barrier can mean the difference between a cold miserable night, or a peaceful restful sleep.  Again there are many different types of pads.  Even home made.  I have a friend who took the time to "shape" a foam mat to his frame.  The mat he chose was thicker and allowed quite a generous shaping.  Because it was foam, he was still able to roll it up for easy storage and transport. 

Cot/air mattress I personally use an air mattress.  For hiking I wouldn't  have that advantage, but for drive in trips, it is my first choice.  When I was growing up, I often had the use of my dads cot, and loved it.  It was sturdy, and allowed me a place to stow my gear, keeping it from under foot.  It was an old canvas army style cot.  I'd love to find another one like that.  Neither of these two options will be convenient for hiking, but still have their place in the gear list.

Sheet I always include at least 1 sheet with my sleeping bag.  It is one more layer, and a way to help keep the inside of your sleeping bag a little cleaner.   It could also be used as an emergency shelter.  It wouldn't work well for the rain, but would make an effective barrier from the sun. 

Blanket Think wool.  Keeps out the cold while at the same time keeps away the moisture.  You could also choose a down blanket.  They are not as cost effective but help prevent the cold nights from getting to you.  When all else fails, take what you have that you don't mind getting dirty.  In the absence of a sleeping bag, blankets layered together make an effective and easy to use bed roll.  In an emergency situation, a bed roll may be your only option.

Pillow(s) Take a pillow that is most comfortable to you.  This is not a good time to see if a harder or softer pillow will make a good fit in your sleeping style.  Take something you are already comfortable with.  I like to keep my pillow in two pillow cases at the same time.  If one happens to get stepped on I can simply turn that one inside out, and maintain a cleaner pillow.  Some campers are perfectly happy with sleeping on their arm or pack.  I am in line with the used-to-coulds on that one.  If I want to wake up in the morning with an ostrich egg sized knot on my neck and shoulder, sleeping on the arm is the way to go.  However I enjoy a good vacation and love my pillow.  :)

Extra tent stakes I can't tell you how many times we have had just the right amount of tent stakes, only to break one because we hit a rock while trying to put it into the ground.  Bend one enough times and even the metal ones will lose their heads.  At least with those, you can bend a new head.  In an area with trees and branches, making one is easy enough.  However, I still recommend at least a few extras just in case.  Besides, extra stakes can assist you when putting up a tarp as well.

Hatchet Multi-use.  One side can cut your fire wood, while the other side can help pound in those pesky tent stakes.  Take care of your hatchet, a dull hatchet will earn you blisters and sore muscles.  A nice sharp edge makes any necessary work seem  to take half the time.  There are many different brands, shapes and materials that make up the selection of hatchets available.  This is an item that you can spend a lot of money on and get junk, or spend a little and get quality. 
This is Amazon.com  http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?rh=k%3Ahatchet%2Ci%3Asporting&keywords=hatchet&ie=UTF8&qid=1303330754

They have a huge selection of hatchets.  They are a good place to start. 

Hammer  A hammer is a good second choice to a hatchet.  It won't cut wood, but will make life easier when putting in those tent stakes.  The only time I have ever used a hammer in a primative camping situation was to put in tent stakes.  I prefer my hatchet. 

Rope Many different ropes have many different uses.  I like to carry a 50' ft nylon rope along with a 50' ft multi purpose or climbing rope.  The nylon comes in handy when tying things down, putting up tarps, making stringers for fish, and so forth.  The multi purpose come in handy for the heavier jobs like, towing, dragging or hauling, and securing gear in bad weather.  A heavier multi strand rope can also be "stripped" down to accommodate many tasks.   

Fiberglass pole repair kit Having been camping in many high wind areas, it is a good idea to have a pole repair kit that is going to suit the needs of your particular tent.  That being said, the majority of tents sold here in the United States are fiberglass bow or flexible pole.  They come in sections that can be put together with the aid of metal collars and bungee cord.  They often sit on top of a pin connected to a ring at the corners of the tent.  Even though these poles are designed to withstand heavy weather, they still have their breaking point.  A fiberglass pole kit consists of sections of pole, with attached collar, and bungee cord.  They are fairly inexpensive, we found ours at the local surplus store for around $6.00.  They also come in different sizes.  Well worth the money.  You can always make due when on your trip, and tie off tent portions that have become collapsed due to a broken pole, but this gives you a second choice. 

Screened in gazebo This and bug dope are going to be effective armor against the blood sucking marauders.  Camping around lakes or other water sources mean... You guessed it, bugs, mosquitoes and biting flies to be exact.  When you can, or if you are inclined to, I recommend a screened gazebo or screened shelter.  If nothing else, they are screened in, bug free zones that make meals much more appetizing. 

Chairs Many different kinds, much more camper friendly than ever before.  They also have become more reasonably priced over time.  This item is also more about comfort than anything else.  Camping chairs suit many different needs based on style and comfort.  Choose what you like, remember you ARE camping.  The most expensive one may not be necessary.  If they are Nylon, keep them away from the flying embers of the camp fire.  One little whole will inevitably result in someones caboose falling through the seat. 

Table These are for convenience.  There is no situation that absolutely has to have a table.  A lap can work just as well for holding your plate as a table.  However, a table provides a place to sit and eat, clean, play cards, prepare food, dry clothes, and many other uses.  Tables again come in many different sizes, heights, and materials.  I like the plastic or composite top tables, they take a beating and unless melted by a heat source maintain a clean look through out their usefulness.  Now companies are even making the standard 6'ft table fold able for storage and transporting purposes.  With a handle no less. 

Saw fold able or folding bow saw Personally I like the fold able saw for safety.  There are many times a saw even a sheet rock saw with interchangeable blades will come in handy.  Top of the list, those long branches that are never quite the right size for the fire pit.  Others uses include, roots that always seem to find the middle of your back right in the middle of the night under your tent.  Clearing dead fall away from trails or road ways.  Taking heads off of fish.  Many places now carry many different types of saws, including folding saws.  They are a great additive to any successful camping excursion. 

Key rings Believe it or not key rings have more uses than just holding onto your keys.  I have used key rings to replace the tabs on tent zippers, (even to tie tent zippers together), a center point to tie several ropes or lines together for securing a tarp in the air.  Even a securing point when needing to utilize a sling.  Carabiners are also great for the last two.  Key rings come in a variety of sizes and can be purchased in almost any store that has a craft section.  They can also be used to quick tie a line around a tree or branch, like a stringer, or canoe line. 

Shovel   There are many reasons to have a shovel on hand.  It doesn't need to be a full sized one either, unless of course you are camping long term and will be doing a lot of digging.  Many stores not only carry short handled shovels, but folding shovels.  Most folding shovels come with a little bag to carry them in.  They make great accessories for camping, emergencies, 72 hour kits and BOB's (bug out bags).  We like to keep one in our vehicles, just in case.  Shovels can be used for trenching, burying, toilet making, and many other purposes.  A good sturdy shovel should maintain a place on any campers list. 

Hand broom and dust pan  These are nice to have when needing to remove the eventual dust and dirt, and sometimes mud from inside the tent.  Even when camping it is a good idea to maintain some level of clean.  Ever tried to sleep with a pillow covered in dust because someone tracked in mud that was allowed to dry, but wasn't swept up?  I wouldn't recommend it. 

Towel We also like to keep a towel with the tent.  When it rains it can be a fight to keep the moisture and mud outside of the tent.  This is where the towel comes in handy.  It is convenient to put muddy shoes on.  This helps prevent tracking unwanted mess, and allows a spot inside the tent, out of the rain for the soiled shoe.  I wouldn't recommend folding the tent with the towel inside when it's time to leave.  If something happens and it is a while before you can put the tent back up to clean it out, you may find that the towel held un-wanted moisture and now you have a mildew stain to contend with.   

Clothes

This is one of many catergories, that can best be described as.... Daunting.

It doesn't seem that way until you start and realize.... Clothes take up a lot of space. 

There are going to be some challenges for this one, mostly if you are a serious, one with nature, kind of personality.  The first question to ask yourself is, "What is the weather going to be like where your planning to stay."  The higher the altitude the colder it can be.  In a valley you might be dealing with 92 degree plus temperatures.  However, go up in altitude by just a thousand feet, and suddenly that 92 feels like 85, or lower.  Another five hundred feet... You get the picture.  Another question you should ask, especially for the parents with kids, "How dirty are you going to get, and can you live with being dirty for a little while?  There are ways to deal with the dirty.  There are ways to deal with dirty and comfort.  You don't want to take your entire dresser while out on even a drive up camping vacation.

There are lots of things you can do to clean up.  Including cleaning clothes.  The idea is to go with only what you need.  This isn't always an option when kids are involved, but as they get older...  it gets easier. 

One product that I have found that works really well is the little tide single wash pouches.  You can find them in any of the travel sections of your local store.  Or you can use what ever soap you have in your gear.  I've used both dish soap and hand soap. 

Water, soap and vigorous scrubbing of the clothes together, and you have created a cleaning environment.  Rinse and then hang to dry.  They will be a bit stiff once dry, but they will also be clean. 

Prepare as if it going to get cold.  Even if your going to Yuma, Arizona in the middle of the summer.  Granted your probably not going to need the down filled, cold blocking down to 20 degress below zero coat in this scenario, but, it will get you into the mind set of being ready.

Here are 12 tips on choosing what to wear.  Layers, layers, and don't forget the layers. 
http://www.websiterepairguy.com/articles/household_tips/stay_warm.html

Cotton is a great tool, as long as it stays dry.  In cooler temperatures, even in just a slight breeze, wet cotton wicks heat away from the body.  That is the last thing you need to happen.  There are great products now that allow for proper dressing with out the hassle of worry. 

This link is to an essay on the pros of being prepared and great recommendations on the types of clothes to bring and use.
http://www.epinions.com/content_4779974788

The writer, Joe McMaster, recommends layers, and preparing for the unforseen weather.  As do I.  For example; I always bring a long sleeve shirt on any camping trip.  Even on the hotest days of summer a long sleeve shirt will be helpful.  Ever had a bad sunburn the first day of what was supposed to be the best trip of the year?  Long sleeve shirt!

With just a bit of research, you can find quality clothes for reasonable prices.  If you cannot afford to go run out an buy all of the necessary clothes in one shot, don't.  Start with essential items.  Long Johns, or long underwear. and socks.  Gloves and a wool hat.  And work your way up. 

Wool used to be bulky, itchy, and hard to come by.  Now it is readily available,  with new uses, better quality, and better prices. 

If you have to stick with cotton or similar fabrics, remember layers.  I recommend sizes larger than you normally wear.  If you normally wear a medium keep that size for your Long Johns and go up one size for your other layers.  (This is why womens winter fashions have never made much sense to me.  Sure you look really cute in that beautiful new winter coat.  And look it fits so snug, you really don't look like your wearing a coat.  The problem with that is you also can't fit any extra layers underneath that skin tight coat.)  I also recommend 1 or 2 button or zip up layers.  If you become over heated while your wearing all of your layers, a button or zip up layer will be easier to undo to allow cooling. 

Remember: Your bodies natural defense is to pull heat away from non essential areas of the body to maintain core temperature.  Your core includes you torso and head.  The blood vessels in the hands, feet, and extremeties begin to shrink.  This prevents blood from taking heat from the core to the extremeties.  In severe situations the joints and skin in the effected or exposed area begin to tighten, and ache.  You start to shiver.  Shivering is the bodies attempt at trying to bring your body temperature back up.  If you get cold enough, you will stop shivering.  Do not take this as a good sign.  If your so cold that you have stopped shivering, hypothermia is well established and you are now in serious trouble. 

The numbers of clothes are ultimately up to you.  I recomend for 4 days or less, in reasonable weather, 2 of all your main layers.  3 if the weather could turn bad, or the trip is longer.  If your hiking, or backpacking, your going to need to determine what your willing to carry verus what will keep you safe during unforseen conditions.  This link defines the layers and gives tips on what to look for in your layers. 
http://www.outdooreyes.com/choosecampingclothes.php3

It is reasonable to assume that you'll be starting the trip wearing some of your layers.  With that in mind, pack as if you wont.  In other words, what ever you plan to wear at the beginning of your trip should not be counted as part of your packing.  That will give you a one up against the possibilities. 

Now to the list.  This list is a general list that includes many items for a variety of camping endeavours.  It is a suggestion, not a hard and fast rule, and as before, you will find items that you can use that are not included in this list, just as well as items you wont use, that you can eliminate from your list. 

Poncho  There are many different types of rain gear.  The Poncho is a good universal covers everything kind of rain gear.  You can throw it on over a pack and keep you and your gear dry.  There are many stores that sell ponchos, from the very thin plastic, to the nice sturdy use over and over agin types.  This is an additive to your list that can be with your clothes or your first aid kit.

Short sleeve shirt At least 2.  Something to get dirty in, something to shred in case of an emergency, something that you didn't get signed by Mick Jagger during his career.  When used in layers, your short sleeve shirts can be tucked into a back pocket, or worn just around the neck.  A short sleeve shirt can also be turned into a type of turbin or wrap for your head while allowing the length of the shirt to cover the neck and shoulders. 

Long sleeve shirt Again, at least 2.  So far this is a total of 4 shirts that can be easily used in your layering system.  Long sleeve shirts can be tied around the waste when they don't need to be worn.  They can be used as a modified pack, a sling, or a cover for your head.  They can also be used to tie splints and pressure bandages. 

Jacket I prefer something lined in fleece with a wind breaking shell, and a hood.  The disadvantage to a windbreaking shell is that it does not easily allow moisture out.  The more like a rain coat your jacket is, the less it will breath.  However, that can also be a plus. 

Coat  For the purposes of camping, even in good weather, find a coat that will give you protection down to the lowest temps possible, remembering that the lower the temperature that the coat can handle, the more money you will be putting into it.  Quality is the key.  A lot of coats now come with a removeable liner.  This is an advantage when working in layers.  Make sure your coat comes with a hood. 

Long pants  2.  Most people use denim.  Denim is versatile, flexible, heavy duty, and strong.  Their one main drawback is what they're made of... Cotton.  Ever gone swimming in jeans?  Or been in a neighborhood water fight while wearing jeans?  They are great sponges.  They become increasingly heavy with the added water, and in a situation where you might have to swim, they act against you.  They can drag you down while your trying to get to safety.  The second most common pants... Sweat pants.  Same problem.  The more water they are holding the heavier they are.  I recommend only 1 pair of denim along with something else.  REI has a great selection of camping gear for men, women, and children.  They have a wide selection of pants that are nylon based.  The only problem I have ever found with nylon is that it will melt when to close to a strong heat source, like an open flame fire.  (Nylon can melt to skin, so be careful)  Having used these light weight pants in the past I've found them to be both warm and comfortable.  During cooler nights you can add your thermal underwear and have better strength against the cold. 

Short pants  Shorts are more a want than a need.  Many companies like REI sell a combination pant/shorts.  You can unzip the legs from the trunk of the pants and vuala, shorts.  In the field there is really no advantage to shorts besides comfort.  I myself wear pants while camping for safety.  Pants help to avoid scrapes and cuts on the legs while also preventing sunburn and provinding a barrier against bug and other bites.  They aren't always full proof, but definitely better than bare skin.

Underwear  These are up to you.  I recommend comfort.  These are not the same as thremal underwear, or long johns.  Remember camping means moving.  There is no couch to just plunk down on ans then do nothing the rest of the day.  Comfort is key.

Socks  Severak pairs, at least 3.  These can be cotton, but especially for cold temperatures... Wool.  Dry feet will make a huge difference especially when confronted with an emergency.  Wool still insulates even when damp.  If your socks or shoes end up wet, take them off, and get them dry.  Depending on how wet your shoes are, at least put on dry socks.  Keep your feet as dry as possible.  If you have enough warm weather to dry shoes and socks, use it.  If you need to make a fire to get things dry, do it.  Socks can fit into the little nooks and crannies or pockets, packs, and bags.  There isn't a good reason to have wet socks.  One trick you can use your socks for... Smaller rocks that have been heating in the fire pit can be stuffed into one of your socks and then placed inside the bottom of your sleeping bag.  These will keep your tootsies warm for several hours through the night.

Hat/ ball cap 1.  Something with a neck and face protection.  During inclament weather, a ski cap.  Something that you can pull down over your ears.  Or hats with flaps.  Hats like socks can be rolled up, and fit into the little spaces in your gear.

Bandana 2.  These can be tied over the head for sun protection, they can be tied in hair to keep it up and out of your face.  They can be used as a bandage, or if large enough, a sling.  They can be used for cleaning, and tying.  They can also be used as a modified bag.  Or a flag.  Remember bright colors attract the human eye.  If you are ever lost, you can use the bandana to signal or mark an area. 

Vest I recommend something with a lot of pockets.  Pockets can be your best friend.  A good fishing vest can be used for many other functions besides fishing.  Between the different pockets you can carry a modified first aid kit, rain gear, fire starting tools, or any number of items. 

Sweat shirt/ Sweater Wool is going to be your best friend.  Cotton will keep you toasty as long as it stays dry.  Cotton helps hold moisture against the body.  Wool wicks it away.  Again there are many new wool products that will accomplish a warm weather combatent, while at the same time not making you feel like you really gained a ton of weight.  In fact there is a newer wool product called Merino wool.  It is lighter weight and has been spun even tighter than ever before.  This link has a great selection of Merino wool for really resonable prices.

http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Category___40000000226_200368296

Shoes/ Boots 2.  Strong, sturdy, and broken in.  Never, I can't say this strongly enough. Never take out your just bought yesterday brand new pair of leather hikers.  You'll be miserable the whole time your out.  Hikers come in several styles, fabrics, sizes, and ankle lengths.  A good sturdy, comfortable pair of tenni-shoes will work if your camping doesn't require long periods of walking or serious hiking.  And make sure they fit properly.  You shouldn't have an inch of space between your toe and the tip of the shoe.  Your toes also shouldn't be curled under to make your feet fit in the shoe.  We call them Keds, sometimes they're referred to as deck shoes or canvas shoes.  They make a great second pair.  You can wear them around camp while letting your better shoes dry out.  Or you can use the canvas pair for those last minute bathroom runs in the middle of the night.  They take up relatively little space and come in adult womens and mens styles and sizes, and kids. 

Snow pants/snow gear  This is something that can come in handy during multiple seasons.  Between early spring, late fall, and of course winter, these can be a good cold resistant garment.  Making sure that your snow gear is rated for certain temperatures is a top priority. 

Snow hat or cap that covers the face  This is still multiple use through several seasons.  Strong winds will have a hard time getting to your skin if you can cover most of it.  For extremely cold weather you can combine a ski mask with a flap hat. 

Thermal underwear  Last but not least.  There are many varieties of thermal underwear or Long Johns.  They make the first most serious layer of your layering system.  They should wick moisture away from the body while at the same time maintaining your body temperature.  The Campmor website, (linked above) is also a great source for the long underwear. 

Wool is still best, but if you can't just plunk down the bucks, do it a step at a time.  I personally would choose the item you are going to be using the most.  If your going to be out during more inclimate weather, consider the Long Johns first.  If your more of the early summer kind of camper, maybe a good sturdy sweater to start.  Or you have reliable layers and a pair of gloves or hat would be better.  Don't forget your feet.  

The best time to try out your new gear?  When your home.  Try out layering while your gardening, shopping, working.  Regular everyday activities will quickly determine what you need to alter in your layers.  Imagine the kinds of things you'll be doing while camping.  Will you be chopping wood, or maybe canoeing.  Try and match your activities at home to what you might be doing in the wilderness.  Don't forget to break in your hikers.  And layer, layer and layer.  Warmth brings comfort and a much more enjoyable trip.

Looking for lists?

When I start a list, I start by listing the categories I am going to need. For example, my 72 hour kit has things like kitchen, bathroom, first aid, food, clothes, camping. My camping list is similar to my 72 hour kit, with more.

Any and all lists are subject to change based on the needs of the list maker. You are the master of your domain, so to speak. Items I find useful may be replaced according to your needs. My ideas serve my family and are combined with years of adding and subtracting until I found the combination that worked the best for me.

Here we go...

I'm going to start with a general list and then we will work from there.  A general list will include everything and a modified kitchen sink. :)

Clothes: (numbers and items are subjective)

Short sleeve shirt(s)

Long sleeve shirt(s)

Jacket(s)

Coat(s)

Long pants

Short pants

Underwear

Socks

Ball cap or hat with a sun protection for neck and face

Beanie cap (winter cap)

Bandana

Vest

Sweat shirt or Sweater

Shoes

Boots

Snow pants or snow gear

Gloves

Snow hat that covers the face

Thermal underwear

Camping:

Tent

Tarp

Sleeping bag(s)

Sleeping mat(s)

Cot

Sheet

Blanket

Pillow(s)

Extra tent stakes

Hatchet

Rope

Nylon line

Fiberglass pole repair kit

Screened in gazebo

Chairs

Table

Saw foldable

Kitchen:

Stove

Fuel

Pot

Frying pan

Dutch oven

Dutch oven lid hook or pliers

Gloves to work with the Dutch ovens

Charcoal Briquettes

Spatula

Large spoon or Ladle

Large fork

Large knife

Cutting board

Bowl for mixing

Measuring cup

Plate(s)

Fork(s)

Spoon(s)

Knife(s)

Cup(s)

Dish soap

Towel(s)

Sponge or wash rag

Tubs for washing and rinsing

Water

Ziploc bags

Aluminum

Paper towels

Hand or baby wipes

Hand sanitizer

Tongs

Matches

Lighter

Toothpicks

Tea kettle

Net bag for hanging and drying rinsed dishes

Garbage bags

Cooler(s)

Water bottles/ canteen

Large water container 15 gallons or more

Bathroom:

Toilet paper

Tooth brush

Tooth paste

Razor

Floss

Towel

Washcloth

Hand soap

Porta potty or sanitation kit

Shovel

Portable shower

Plastic wash basin

Mirror

Privacy cover for porta potty

Diapers or pull-ups for youngsters

Contact lens cleaning solution

Cloths for cleaning eye glasses

Baby or hand wipes

Brush/Comb

Hair bands

Lip balm or chapstick

First aid:

Band aides various sizes

Gauze pads

Triangle bandages

Medical tape

Alcohol wipes

Iodine

Triple antibiotic

Cotton balls

Q-tips

Tweezers

Fingernail clippers

Finger nail file

Scissors

Knife

Multi tool

Lip balm/ chap stick

Sewing kit w/fishing line

Pain relievers and other necessary medications including epipens

Steri strips

Batteries

Matches

Lighter

Candle

Fish hooks

Ace wrap

Self adhesive bandage wraps

Cold compress

Sting relief

Absorbent compress

Rubber gloves

Ammonia inhalant

Flashlight

Whistle

Compass

Hard candy

Hand and body warmer

Poncho/ rain gear

Solar emergency blanket

Wind up light/ radio

Sun block

Bug dope or spray

Safety pins

Disposable razor

Womens sanitary products

Pencil/paper

Mirror w/hole in the center

Eye dropper

Super glue

Miscellaneous:

Small broom

Hammer

umbrella

Fishing pole

Tackle box

Small first aid kit

Large knife

Large rope

Sunglasses

Binoculars

Camera

Tripod

Food:

Food, let’s start out with this... Food is completely up to you. There are many great tips and ideas for a successful meal plan. Let’s ask some questions first. Later on I will do an example menu. I think that will be the best way to proceed. 

  

The list above is very large and includes a lot of un necessary items.   Unnecessary, if you are intending a little less driving and camping, and a little more, being one with nature.    

As we progress we will narrow the lists down to essentials rather than all inclusive.     

The main two goals for a tidier list are 1) less to carry, consolidation and multi purposing being the key.  And 2) Less to carry means more comfort, and less to worry about.  The old adage, “less is more couldn’t be truer.

Start with a back pack.  It doesn’t need to be a specific back pack.  I recommend a good sturdy hiking pack.  Interior or exterior framing is up to you.  There are good points for both kinds.  However, if you can’t run out and buy a brand spanking new pack, use what you have available.  If you don’t have anything available see if you could at least put $30.00 to $50.00 together and get a sturdy school back pack.  Remember to look for a starting, or jumping off point.  As time progresses, upgrades are always possible.  You could also go to your local Army Navy surplus and pick up a large duffle.  There may not be pockets, but for a small amount of money, you will have a bag that has a large compartment, and strap for over shoulder carrying.  At my local surplus the bags run about $40.00 for the very large bags down to about 19.99 for the smaller of the large bags.  They come in both square and round duffels, and have double straps.  The round ones also come with a shoulder strap that can be slung over one shoulder and around the body for more support.   

We’re going to start detailing the first aid kit.  As future posts come, we will delve into their particular needs and details according to each category.

First Aid:

The best bags I have found for a first aid kit are bags that measure approximately 8 in” x 5” x 2 ½”.  Similar bags might carry things like shaving kits or make up.  One of the plastic zipper bags that come as packaging when you buy new pillow cases, make for a visible and sturdy container.  Hard cases are nice, but add weight and are not very forgiving when trying to pack the last nooks and crannies of your pack.  If you are looking to protect certain items in your first aid kit there are ways to do that without using a full hard box.  I will give you some ideas in a bit.

Because you never know what kind of environment you will be in, Ziploc bags are going to need to become your best friend.  They are multi taskers.  Their strong suit, is of course, holding things in while keeping others out.  Never under estimate the power of the zip lock.  Use them to compartmentalize your first aid kit.  Organization is your benefit.

Band aids I recommend at least 4 of every size you can find.  If you are wise, you can cut down bandages to suit needs when smaller ones have been used and are no longer accessible. I also recommend fabric bandages versus plastic.  They are a little more forgiving and can take a little heavier beating.

Gauze pads 4 x 4, 2 x 3, and rolls, all make great additives for various uses in every first aid kit.  Remember when you have larger pads, you can cut them down to fit what you need to accomplish. 

Triangle bandages Triangle bandages can be purchased or made.  Bandanas may be a bit small but can still be utilized, cotton cloth diapers work great for this purpose.  A triangle bandage can be used for a few different situations.  They can be used for tying off wounds, pressure bandages, slings, and head covers in intense heat and cold.  They are the multi tool of the large bandage world.

Medical tape Medical tape comes in various lengths, types, and containers.  For the purposes of camping, 72 hour kits, home emergencies of a more serious nature, I recommend the wide cloth medical tape, also referred to as sports tape.  It was designed for things like taping ankles and wrists before sporting events.  It holds together well against the abuse, and makes a strong yet flexible support when used in multiple layers.  It is easy to tear, very affordable, and can be used across the board for securing bandages.    

Alcohol wipes There are many places that sell alcohol wipes.  They may be referred to as first aid kit replacements.  I found some on Amazon.com for about $2.11/ every 50. There are also many other places that carry them as well.  I would recommend these for rather than  bottles of alcohol, for again, space and weight.

Iodine Iodine or mercurochrome come in smaller bottles and therefore will not add a lot of weight, or mass.  You can find iodine pads online, but they are a little expensive.  Approximately $1.00 a pad. 

Triple antibiotic This comes in packets or tubes.  Either way is up to you.  The packets are approximately .15 cents a packet, and come in a variety of quantities.  The tubes are generally 1 oz and range in price from name brand at about $3.00 a tube to the generics or store brands that usually range around half of that amount.  Of course, we all should be looking for the sales J. 

Cotton balls

Q-tips

Tweezers

Fingernail clippers

Finger nail file besides the obvious a fingernail file can be used to strike matches on.  Keep short one with your matches.

Scissors If you can get ahold of them I recommend medical scissors, otherwise find a pair that takes up relatively small space.  You might want to consider a round tipped pair and a pointy ended pair.  I have had great success finding scissors of all kinds at booths and fairs.  You can find several different types, and sizes online as well.  It depends on what you think you will need, but the prices at a quick glance range from just under $10 dollars clear up into the hundreds of dollars.  In place of scissors, a knife is always available.  Kept sharp it can be your best friend.

Knife So you’ve thought about a knife.  There are so many knives on the market that the choices can be overwhelming.  There are folding knives, folding knives with locks, knives with guards and sheaths.  Many are large enough to need to be tied at the tip to keep them from bouncing around.   Then there are knives that are small enough to sit quietly in the pocket for weeks on end, at least until that crucial moment when your 2 year old needs their straw shortened at the local fast food joint.   Some think the best way to decide on a knife comes down first, to looks, and then to safety.  When actually it should be how the knife is designed. Is the blade and handle all one piece?  Are you going to need a machete or will something a tad smaller suffice.  What is going to be the main function of your knife?  Are you going to hunt with it, are you using it for fishing?  To me, several sizes for different functions make more sense.  Besides, if I have a problem with one, or I lose it, (heaven forbid) I will be sure to have a backup.  Talk to your local dealers, shop for comparison’s online, and maybe visit your local gun shop or show.  I have yet to find someone unwilling to help when it comes to answering, and of course possibly selling a knife.

Multi tool Most known multi tools contain several different tools in the same pair of pliers.  Many include a knife, flat and Phillips head screw drivers, and pliers.  A good pair has a grip that is designed to be as comfortable as possible on the hands.  Less expensive pairs, tend to be harder on the hands.  They are useable but a little more brutal. 

Lip balm or Chap stick Choose the type you like.   Make sure you have an original and a backup.  I can’t tell you how many times, I knew I had one only to find out it had been left home.  A second tucked away is going to make your life much easier.  I also recommend a lip aid that has a sunscreen or sun block in it.  When you are camping or out of doors for extended periods of time, you’d be amazed at how quickly your lips succumb to the elements.

Sewing kit w/fishing line This is mostly for quick fixes in the field.  A lost button, or a quick whip stitch to fix a tear.  And yes in the most serious of circumstances, skin.  I was taught, when I was young, to pick a light color and a dark color of yarn.  You take a 3 x 5 card and cut parallel notches out of two sides of the card.  Folding the card in half, first makes it stiffer and stronger.  I will use a total of 3 pairs of notches.  Now pick one of your threads and start winding between one of the pair of notches.  Wrap the thread until it is quite thick on the card.  (Approximately 1/8 to ¼ inch thick) Then repeat this with the next color.  And finally for the third pair wrap fishing line.  The very last step is poking a couple sewing needles under the thread and through the card.  They will be perpendicular to the thread.  

Pain Relievers or other medicines There are many pain relievers that come in their own small convenient containers.  However, if you are like me and buy a lot of items in larger containers or bulk, there are some alternatives available.  Empty 35 mm film canisters, old prescription bottles, or there are many stores which now carry empty containers of varying size for sale.  All bottles should be water proof when sealed and clearly marked with the contents. 

Sutures w/needles These can be purchased at several stores now.  Emergency essentials is one of many that carry them.  They come prepackaged which keeps them sterile. If you can get them I would recommend it.  Remember you’ll still have your sewing kit. 

Steri strips Are thin adhesive strips used to close small cuts or wounds.  In a pinch these are a good alternative to in-field stitches.    They can be purchased in several locations that carry medical aids.

Batteries How many things do you have packed that require batteries?  How many different sizes will you need?  Always check your battery powered equipment before you leave on your trip.  Even if you just came back yesterday.  After that I recommend 1 extra pair of batteries per item, per week.  Keep them in a water proof container or zip lock bag.  This will prevent water from contacting the batteries, but also, just in case, corrosion from the batteries, getting on any other equipment. 

Matches There are many types of camping matches.  Waterproof, strike anywhere, safety.  All have their value, and their usefulness.  I recommend strike anywhere, or water proof.  You can make matches water proof, all you’ll need is paraffin wax or turpentine and a little time.  (I will talk about that process a little later on.)  There are many products now that will help maintain waterproof matches.  Containers and boxes that have a waterproof seal when closed. 

Lighter This makes a good backup or primary fire starter.  There are many options for starting fires in the most emergent and least prepared situations.  Flint and steel, battery and steel mesh, magnifying glass or glasses and dry kindling, and then tried and true, even if it does take a lot of patience, rubbing two sticks together. 

Candle Candles, of course, come in many different shapes and sizes.  I recommend candles around 6 inches in length with a straight shaft.  The width of the shaft should be 1 inch across.   

Fish hooks Nearly every sporting goods or outdoor store, you’ll be able to find fish hooks.  They come in many different configurations and sizes.  There are even hooks that come with a pre-tied leader.  Whatever you decide to buy, keep them in their original containers.  The pre-tied hooks come on a cardboard backer that is similar to a book mark, in a zip lock pouch.  For safety, you can fold this in half and place a rubber band around it.  Some hooks will come in a little plastic box, or pouch.  If the box doesn’t take up very much room just add the whole thing to your kit.  If it does take up to much space consider making a 3 x 5 card envelope.  Simply fold the 3 x 5 card in a little less than half.  Tape the two short sides together and fold over the remaining “lip” of the card.  Now you can close the “envelope” and secure it with a rubber band.  This “envelope will work for both un-tied and pre-tied hooks.  While your at it, add a few fishing weights to your newly made envelope.  You can also add them to the little baggy that contains the pre-tied hooks.

Ace wraps There are many ways you can make a splint or secure a limb or joint without the use of an already made wrap.  However there are obvious advantages to having one on hand.  I recommend a medium sized wrap.  It can be folded in half, length wise for smaller problems, and be used to secure both medium and larger problems.  

Self-adhesive bandage wraps There is a product on the market that has been around for the last 20 years or so.  It is a wrap that clings to itself.  No need for tape or clips to hold it on.  It comes in a variety of colors, and can be found in nearly every store that sells medical products, like Band-Aids and injury support items.  They generally are the same approximate size as ace wraps, and look a little like a wrinkled tape.  Because it sticks to itself it can be easily un-wrapped and then re-wrapped to suit the needs of the injury.  This allows a quick change or adjustment without having to use up valuable supplies. 

Cold compress Cold compress’s come in handy for the inevitable goose egg, bump, bruise, or sprain.  The quick cold relief helps to shrink the blood vessels in the affected area, bring swelling to slow down, and even a halt.  Cold compresses can bring relief to back pain, headaches, and burns as well.  I recommend, if you have the space, these are a great consideration.   They are relatively low in price, and can be found in a variety of places including online.  Here is one sight I found that had a wide variety, with minimal cost.  http://www.firstaidstore.com/ .  Type in the key word, "cold compress". 

Sting relief There are many sting remedies available commercially.  If you have used them, and or like them, go ahead and add the one you like to your first Aid kit.  Personally I have two alternatives that I have used, and found to be extremely effective.  1) Aspirin.  Adding water to a little crushed aspirin, immediately gives relief to the affected area.  This is true for insect stings and stinging plants alike.  It works similarly to calamine lotion.  2) Mud.  Whether or not you are in an area of mud you can accomplish a sting relief with just a little added water.  I have found that the best “mud” ingredient is powdered dirt.  This can be clay or silt, or fine sand.  Adding just a bit of water allows for a “paste” which can be applied directly to the affected area, providing immediate relief. 

Absorbent compress Absorbent compresses can be easily purchased at any stores that carry medical aids.  They can also be made.  The definition of an absorbent compress, is something that provides support for a wound or injury while absorbing body fluids, such as blood.  Absorbent compresses allow the wound to ooze, while containing the loss of blood, and at the same time keeping the injury sight as clean as possible.  By applying pressure to the bandage, you also have the advantage of slowing or stopping the bleeding without needing to apply bare hands to the wound. 

Rubber gloves These come in handy for all sorts of reasons.  Sometimes the only reason to have a pair of gloves is because they provide a barrier between your hands and whatever might affect your hands.  Most often and most necessary, gloves are wanted and needed to provide a barrier to prevent infection between both the victim and the helper.  In the simplest terms, gloves help to prevent germs from getting into the wound of the victim, while at the same time preventing potential hazards from the victim, from accessing the helper.

Ammonia Inhalant This are used in cases of fainting.  There are many reasons for fainting.  Many of the reasons are benign, many are serious.  The inhalant provides a noxious odor that elicits and immediate response from the lungs of the victim.  This induces the waking response. Generally in benign circumstances the victim can awaken before the inhalant is located.  In more serious occurrences, medical assistance should be sought as soon as possible.  Some more serious causes can be, injury, diabetes, heart problems, or neurological disorders.  It is recommended that all first aid kits carry inhalants.

 Flashlight I like to have several different flashlights with me.  None of them need to be huge, but several small ones provide light and comfort when out and about.  Some advantages to several smaller flashlights?  They take up less room.  One can be included in the first aid kit while others or another are in a general location in your pack.  If one becomes broken or lost, there is a replacement.  Smaller flashlights take smaller batteries, therefore the smaller batteries also take up less space. 

Whistle If you’ve ever been in a situation where yelling is necessary, you will easily understand the whistle.  This is used to get attention.  It is used to keep in contact.  It is also used as a noise maker just to make the kids happy.  You can whistle on a plastic whistle a lot longer and with a lot less pain than you can yell.  The sound of a whistle also carries further than a human voice.  A mechanical or manmade whistle also sounds different than everything else natural in the outdoors, making It easy to distinguish from other sounds.

Compass Have you ever tried to divine a direction while land marks and sun direction were not possible indicators.  Or, have you ever tried to walk a straight line without the aid of a defined direction?  This is why a compass is a must.  Even on the most overcast, deep in the woods days, a compass will work in your favor.  There are many very expensive “bells and whistles” compasses, and many inexpensive alternatives.  When you purchase a compass, the most important thing to know is that the compass does not get stuck in its mechanism trying to show you North.  If it does, put it back and get a different one.  The second most important thing to know about a compass is, does it really know where North is?  If you know that the sun travels from East to West, and that East at your right shoulder means North is ahead of you.  It shouldn’t be too difficult to discern North.  If this is brand new territory for you, I recommend talking to someone who knows the ropes.  They can guide you through the basics of direction and compass reading.  Over time you can seek out new information on compasses and map reading. 

Hard candy Hard candy seems like a weird additive right?  But it comes in handy in the weirdest times.  Hard candy can help overcome thirst when out in the field and in trouble by making your mouth water.  It can be a way to take you mind off of a troubling situation, and quick fix for low blood sugar.  Still it is a temporary solution.  But temporary can mean the difference in survival. 

Hand/Body warmer There are two types of warmers.  One time use, and re-usable.  The Hot spot re-usable hand warmer is good for up to two hours.  That time will be shortened if left out in the cold.  The one time use warmers last for about 8 hours.  Both are great alternatives when a fire isn’t possible.  The one time use warmers also come in several sizes.  I’ve used them fishing, and camping, standing in line for book signings in the middle of a cold snap, and sporting events.  They both work really well.  And reactivating the reusable warmer is just a matter of following the directions.

Poncho/ Raingear there are several sizes of poncho available commercially.  It is very important to stay dry whenever possible.  If you cannot find, or access a poncho, the next best thing is a large garbage sack.  By ripping or cutting a hole in the bottom of the bag you can easily slop it over your head providing shelter against the elements.  Holes in the sides of the bag will provide spots for arms.  This is a great last resort especially with large groups of unprepared campers stuck in the rain.

Solar emergency blanket These are large silver or mylar blankets that are used to hold body heat close to the user.  They work by radiating up to 80% of the body heat back. 

Epipen  The epipen is available by prescription only.  If you require the use of an epipen due to severe allergies, it is up to you to maintain you epipen.  It is also up to you to give this information to another responsible person in your camping or emergency party.  If you have an allergic reaction you may not be in a position to administer the drug yourself.  If you are concerned about severe allergies, or have had previous problems, it is a great idea to discuss the possibilities of needing an epipen with your doctor. 

Wind up light/ radio Advancements in technology certainly have come a long way since I was a kid.  Having a flashlight that only required shaking or a winding handle was almost unheard of, and certainly not in the price range of the average user.  Now there are all sorts of configurations for both flashlights and radios alike.  There are tons of different types of these windup radio/flashlights on the market.  Do your homework and get the one you feel most comfortable with.

Sun block No first aid kit should ever be without this item.  Whether in winter, or in summer, or anywhere in between.  Most of spend enough time in doors, that 1 good day of radiated sunlight can really do us in.  I recommend water proof.  Even if you never take a swim, you will sweat.  I also recommend sun block, not sunscreen.  There is nothing worse than starting a great camping trip only to get sunburned on the first day and spend the rest of the time fighting the after effects of the burn. 

Bug dope or Bug spray This item is only needed during certain seasons of the year, depending on the location of your trip.  Even if the offending bugs never infect you with anything, just a few well placed bites can make for a miserable night’s sleep.  Also, because we all react differently to bug bites in general, it is a safe bet that someone in the group will have bigger problems with the bites than expected.  It just makes sense to prevent the bites in the first place. 

Safety pins These come in handy for a variety of reasons.  Rips in cloths, repairing cloth equipment, wound lancet, modified slings, and although I have yet to try it, fishing hook.  Now this last one I am going to take into consideration and try the next time I go fishing which incidentally should be this weekend.  Then I can report back on this one.  I recommend several safety pins. 

Disposable razor This comes in handy for a good clean up or in case of a wound inside a hairline or perhaps a hairy arm or leg, the area can be cleaned up for proper first aid.  Remember Band-Aids have a hard time sticking to hair.

Women’s sanitary products Now I know the first images that your seeing.  However these have a double use.  Besides the obvious, there are also circumstances that warrant the extra absorbency attributed to sanitary products.  For example, tampons work for severe bloody noses, but also puncture wounds.  They stop the bleeding and expand as they absorb, blocking further bleeding.  Pads that are thicker can be used as an absorbent compress or the lining of a pressure bandage. 

Pencil/paper As corny as it may sound, while you’re sitting home safe and sound, these two items can be very useful in the outdoors.  When lost they can be used in a couple of different ways.  Make a note and place it in a zip lock bag, then pin it or place it in an obvious place that may be seen by rescuers.  Or, make note of landmarks while making your way out of a bad situation.  Sometimes while in a rush we can lose valuable visual information.  Sometimes this is due to panic, sometimes it is due to not understanding that we are in a bad situation.  Having a written memory can serve us or even save us.

Mirror w/ hole in the center There are many premade mirrors with a peep hole on the market.  However, if you’re a do it yourselfer, you can make one.  Any craft store will carry small mirrors, the dollar store, cosmetic counter, or grandmas old make up bag, are all good places to look for small mirrors.  Now all you need to do is scrape a hole in the center of the paint on the back of the mirror.  This can be done with a razor blade, or nail, something sharp enough to go through the paint, not the glass.  If you were lost and trying to get to help, you could use the mirror to reflect sunlight toward a possible rescue, including helicopters, planes, and other campers or hikers.  The hole in the center is meant for you to aim your reflector toward the rescuers and be more accurate.  Like a peep hole. 

Eye dropper Also a dual use item.  There are the obvious reasons to have an eye dropper and then maybe not so obvious.  Eye droppers can also be used to deliver other medicines to a victim.  Of course you’re going to need to clean out the dropper part, but this can make giving even common medicines easier.  Have you ever tried to give liquid Tylenol to a screaming infant with out the cool little dropper that normally comes with the bottle?  Not any fun.  The dropper is also a way to deliver iodine, or alcohol, or peroxide to a localized injury.  Especially, when resources may be scarce. 

Super glue Last but not least.  Super glue can be used to close small wounds and fix certain items. 

Ideas to protect certain items in hard cases without a full hard box. There are a few different things that can help to protect certain items of a first aid kit while at the same time keeping the main kit a little more pliable for packing and squishing into the deep dark corners of the pack, also, in some cases,  for the sake of water proofing.  Some of these containers include 35 mm film canisters, old Tylenol or Ibuprofen bottles with the child proof caps, tic tac boxes, tin Band-Aid cans, old prescription bottles, old plastic spice bottles.  There things you can repurpose just for this necessity.  Use your imagination.  If you choose something that you find doesn’t quite work, try something new.  There is no rule that says once you’ve done it your stuck with it. 

Water proofing matches. This site explains very well the different methods available for water proofing matches.  Each method does have its own risks and rewards.  I recommend if your not comfortable water proofing your own matches, buy them.  However, if you think you can accomplish this task, do!  You have nothing to lose by learning a new skill.  Paraffin can be found in many different stores.  Sometimes it is located with canning supplies, sometimes it is in the preparedness section.  Ask the store personale and they will be glad to help you.  Turpentine is generally found in art supply stores, or the art supply section of the local craft or chain store.  Both are relatively inexpensive when it comes to a project like this because you won’t be using vast quantities.    Here’s that website, http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Waterproof-Matches .

Safety pin fishing.  This one is going to have to be tried out.  I will be writing a report on the trial as soon as I can give it a go.  Wish me luck.  :)